An Elusive But Very Big Bean--And a Soup Recipe

Shortly after the earthquake that caused widespread damage in Napa, CA, last August, my husband and I revisited the city that had so captured our hearts (and appetites) the year before. Some buildings looked untouched while others--many ornate, vintage structures--showed visible damage and were surrounded by rubble from bricks and masonry that had fallen during the 6.0 temblor. Luckily for us, the more modern side of the town across the river fared well and was a beehive of activity. We wandered into The Fatted Calf, a popular charcuterie and butcher shop at the fabulous Oxbow Public Market, next door to the beloved Model Bakery, home to a world-renown English muffin (about which you can read elsewhere on this blog).

After buying a roast beef sandwich from the Fatted Calf, my gaze fell on a bag of the largest beans I'd ever encountered--white beans shaped like limas but about three times the size. Of course, being a longtime legume lover, I had to have them. I can't recall the price, (though at the website, most of the beans can be gotten for $5.95 per pound--plus shipping, which strikes me as eminently reasonable for rare, fresher-than-average beans). I bought the bag with the label sporting the picture of the pretty '40s-style woman with her tongue out, suggesting a hearty appetite--for beans, of course!

Rancho Gordo Royal Corona Beans, the label said, were "a big, fat super-creamy white runner bean that's even bigger when cooked." No kidding!

Heirloom beans are the foundation of the Napa-based company, the brainchild of Steve Sando, who writes a lively blog on the website and co-authored a 2008 book on heirloom bean varieties, cooking techniques and recipes. The website is also a great resource for cooking tips and recipes.

In addition to 37 varieties of beans offered for sale on its website (though not all are always available), the company also sells other bean-friendly goods, like chilies, spices, dried corn, rice and other grains. It has storefronts in Napa and San Francisco, and its products are carried in various specialty stores around the country.

Many of its beans are grown in Northern California, with others from Mexico, and some--like my beloved Royal Corona-- hailing from further afield. I discovered this after I used up the last of my beans in a tasty chicken, bean and kale soup and immediately went to the company's website hoping to order some more.

Alas, they were out of stock. When I put my name on the waiting list, I learned I was 98th, most likely behind some well-known chefs like Thomas Keller (Bouchon, French Laundry) and David Kinch (Manresa), all major Rancho Gordo fans apparently. In desperation, I wrote to Customer Service and heard back promptly from Pamela López:

"I'm glad to hear you've become a super fan of our Royal Corona!" she said in an email. "I must admit it's my favorite bean as well! Unfortunately for both of us, we won't be getting it  back for some time as it's harvested in Europe; it's from Poland to be precise. So imagine how long it takes for the beans to sprout and then the time it takes to get to the US... The time seems daunting but it's definitely in our near future, hopefully by the end of this year."

Ms. López chided me gently for letting my blog go to seed, so largely thanks to her (and a less subtle nudge from my hubby), I'm writing about that elusive bean, hoping perhaps my name will move up a few notches on the waiting list (please!). Meanwhile, Ms. López suggested that the company's cassoulet beans would be a good substitute, because, though not as large, they are equally creamy and delicious. Cannellini beans might be another good alternative.

One note on canned beans vs. fresh: Although I've used canned varieties on occasion, there is a definite taste and texture difference in beans that have been soaked overnight, then cooked until they've got just the right bite. There is a meaty firmness to cooked dry beans and more character than in the canned variety, which are a little too mushy for my taste. This is particularly true in heirloom beans that are harvested and sold within a short period of time. They also require less cooking time.

So, finally, here's a soup recipe in which the beans really play a starring role.  It's a variation on an Italian bean and kale soup I've made before. In addition to these meaty, creamy beans, a homemade chicken broth adds a great deal of flavor, along with some Parmesan rind added toward the end. You can use canned broth, but again, you'll sacrifice flavor. However, in a time crunch, it works just fine--especially when amped up with a little Parmesan.

Chicken, Bean & Kale Soup

(8 to 10 servings)

Ingredients:

3 quarts (12 cups) homemade* or store-bought chicken broth

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, diced

3 to 4  carrots, peeled and diced

3 to 4 stalks celery, diced

1 medium potato, peeled and diced

2 cups kale, washed, chopped and loosely packed

1/2 cup Italian parsley, chopped

2-3 cloves minced garlic

1 to 2 cups cooked Royal Corona, cassoulet or cannellini beans**

Parmigiano-Reggiano rind or 2-3 tablespoons grated Parmesan

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 

1/2 teaspoon dried basil or 2 tablespoons fresh leaves, chopped

Other spices to taste

1/2 cup white wine (optional)

1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked chicken breast meat, chopped or shredded

Notes:

*I made my chicken stock from the frozen carcasses of two leftover roast chickens, leftover gravy, two uncooked chicken backs, plus chopped onions, carrots, celery and spices that I simmered for about 1 1/2 hours, then strained. I added several cups of Trader Joe's Organic Low-Sodium Chicken Broth when the broth turned out not to be quite enough. If you make the stock ahead of time, a little fridge time will allow you to skim the fat off the top before making the soup.

**Directions for dried beans usually include soaking them overnight, then draining them and boiling until done. There are fast-soak methods that call for boiling dried beans for a few minutes, then letting them soak for an hour or so before cooking.

Directions:

1. In a large skillet over a medium heat, add half the oil and fry chopped onions, celery, carrots and potatoes until softened and golden but not cooked through. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add to a stockpot, along with the chicken broth and bay leaf. Warm over a medium flame until simmering, then lower heat.

2. Add the remaining oil to the skillet and cook kale until lightly wilted on medium heat. Add parsley and garlic, cooking for another minute or two. Add to the stock pot along with the cooked beans and Parmesan rinds, if using.

3. Add salt, pepper, thyme, basil, additional spices and wine, if using. Cook for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft and the flavors are well combined.

4. Add cooked chicken right before serving.

5. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and serve with a green salad and some crusty bread.

Buon appetito!

New Year's Brunch: Spinach and Cheese Strata

Cheese Strata ready to bake. 

When visitors come calling, I can get frenetic if I haven't prepared ahead of time. A bit like a jack-in-the-box, I'm up, I'm down, then up again--to the stove, the refrigerator, the table, the sink, chopping up the last-minute salad, throwing together a cheese plate, rounding up the drinks and a vegetarian dish for a non-meat eater. Of course, I flash back to my mother, who never seemed to sit for any length of time, so intent was she on the last-minute prep that went into the evening meal, whether it was for the family or for a house full of relatives or guests.

The other day, a small group of women gathered at my house for our monthly writing group. To reduce the work for the host, the guests often bring a small lunch, while the host prepares a side dish or two. My guests were arriving at 10 a.m., so I thought a small breakfast/brunch was in order, but I didn't feel like worrying over a pan of scrambled eggs--they're not my forte anyway. I thought an eggy casserole might be in order, so I turned to another of my trusty cookbooks, Ruth Reichl's The Gourmet Cookbook--a big yellow tome of a book brimming with practical and delicious recipes. Under breakfast, I found one that struck my fancy: "Spinach and Cheese Strata": bread cubes, spinach, butter, cheese and eggs--fairly simply, something that could be prepared the night before and then baked and served the morning of. What could be easier? it worked out pretty much as planned--and went over very well. Here's the recipe.

Spinach and Cheese Strata

8 to 10 servings

(Adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook)

Ingredients

1 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, finely chopped (1 1/2 cups)

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg*
1/2 to 1 lb. French or Italian bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
(about 8 to 10 cups)
2 cups coarsely grated Gruyere cheese (about 6 ounces)
1 cup finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese**
2 3/4 cups whole milk
9 large eggs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

*The recipe calls for freshly grated nutmeg, but I used a commercial variety, and the results were just fine.

**The recipe calls for Parmigiano-Reggiano, but I used a less expensive variety of Parmesan. Again, I think the casserole didn't suffer.

Directions

1. After defrosting spinach, squeeze out as much liquid as possible. I put the spinach in a colander and pressed with a spoon to accomplish this.

2. Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the chopped onion and cook until softened, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and the nutmeg, cooking and stirring for another minute. Stir in the spinach and then remove from the heat.

3. Butter a shallow 3-quart gratin dish or other shallow casserole dish. (I used a 14-inch oval ceramic dish that was a wedding present from an English aunt many years ago.)

4.  Chop a loaf of Italian or French bread into cubes, starting with half the loaf, then cubing more as needed.  (I prefer the large loaves to the skinny, baguettes, which have too much crust and too little doughy interior.) Spread one-third of the bread cubes in the bottom of the casserole dish. Top with one-third of the spinach mixture. Sprinkle with one-third each of the cheeses. Then repeat two more times, topping with the final layer of cheese. (Because of the size of my dish, I found that I used virtually an entire loaf of bread and didn't quite have enough of the spinach mixture, so next time I make the dish I may increase the amount of spinach, butter and onion by a third.)

5. In a large bowl, whisk together milk, eggs, mustard and remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper. You can also add other spices if you like, such as paprika, perhaps a sprinkling of chopped fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and parsley.

6. Carefully pour the egg mixture over the casserole, making sure to distribute the liquid evenly. (I used a small ladle to do the pouring, as my ingredients were almost overflowing the dish, then added a sprinkle of paprika on top for color.)

7. Cover the casserole and refrigerate for at least 8 hours to allow the bread to absorb the liquid. (I refrigerated it overnight, which worked out perfectly for my next-day brunch.)

8. When you're ready to bake the casserole, remove it from the refrigerator and allow it to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before popping it into a preheated 350 degree F oven.

9. Bake uncovered for 45 to 55 minutes until golden brown on top. To make sure the casserole is cooked through, cut into it to see if the bottom is firm. If it seems a bit soft and liquidy, return to the oven for a few more minutes, checking to make sure that it doesn't brown too much on top. (I made the mistake of leaving the casserole in the oven, which I had switched off, after serving several pieces to my friends. When I took it out later, meaning to serve some more, it had browned a bit too much on top. However, it was still excellent and soft inside, easily re-heated in the oven or microwave for several days thereafter--and actually better two days later than on the day I served it!)

Tinkering

1. Adding mushrooms or substituting cooked fresh spinach or kale for the frozen spinach might be an excellent variation. Again, I would make sure to remove as much liquid as possible from the vegetables before adding them to the casserole.

2. Amping up the heat with some chopped spicy chilies, using milder red peppers, or a combination, plus switching from Gruyere to a medium sharp cheddar might be another interesting variation. In this case, I might add a dash of spicy tomato salsa or Sriracha to heighten the flavor.

3. It's possible to lighten the casserole by using low-fat milk, reduced-fat cheeses and even an egg substitute or egg whites for some of the eggs. However, the resulting casserole won't be as satisfying and flavorful. My theory of weight control--and, believe me, it has been and continues to be a major challenge in my life--is that it's better to eat what you want, just less of it. Otherwise, you feel so deprived that in a weak or stressful moment, you embark on a binge--much worse than having that one piece of chocolate cake or square of spinach and cheese strata.

Happy New Year!

A bouquet of alstroemerias from a good friend
 brings sunshine into my house on a gloomy day.

Living With a Picky Eater

A happy man with his liquid-egg omelet and red grape juice. 

Living with a picky eater when you're a food blogger is quite a challenge. My husband Jeff, ultra-inventive when it comes to his artistic passions--photography, videography, writing and music--not only would be happy to eat the same thing for breakfast, lunch and dinner; he often does! When I ask him if he doesn't get a little bored dining on the same fare so frequently he looks at me blankly and says, "Well, I've been married to you for all these years, haven't I?" Nice guy.

Jeff's favorite Welch's Red 100% Grape Juice in his beloved Porky Pig glass.

Among the things he won't eat: most vegetables, many fruits, fish, beef, pork, lamb and anything with sugar in it before noon--this last because he says it disagrees with him until after lunch. Among his favorites, in no particular order: unflavored rice cakes, rye bread, succotash (or Trader Joe's Soycutash), carrots, lemons, apples, unsweetened cereal (usually dry, eaten out of a large plastic cup--but never for breakfast--with Crispix being his favorite), liquid eggs (more on that later), cheese (but not cream or stinky kinds), roasted unsalted almonds, Progresso soup (lentil, minestrone and chicken tortilla, though he admits when pushed that he likes my homemade versions better), chicken, turkey, and black-bean veggie burgers. Jeff's drinks of choice are Diet Coke or Welch's Red 100% Grape Juice; he doesn't like the purple variety and since none of our local supermarkets stock the red anymore, we order it by the case, courtesy of the very obliging local supermarket chain, Gelson's. He does love sweets, particularly chocolate, and has an abiding weakness for a candy bar he enjoyed growing up in New York City, Goldenberg's Peanut Chews. Oh, yes, hubby also doesn't touch alcohol or coffee, about which he teases me by calling it "dirty water." What a joker!

Now, you ask, how can I remain married to this fussy man? Well, truth be told, he's pretty easy to please if you make him approximately the same thing every day, or allow him to whip it up himself. Imagine, if you will, that though cooking is one of your passions, you're too tired to put together a dinner one evening. In totters hubby from his home office and happily throws several Morningstar Spicy Black Bean Burgers in the skillet, sprinkles them with lemon juice, takes a second pan and pours in a generous amount of Trader Joe's frozen Soycutash--a blend of corn, red peppers and edamame--more lemon juice plus some Parmesan and faster than you can say, "voila!", dinner's on the table--no fuss, no muss. It's pretty good, and if you want it again the next night, the chef is happy to oblige.

Ingredients for Jeff's favorite morning omelet, plus cheese.

But since we began with dinner, let's backtrack and talk about breakfast--and we'll end with a simple recipe for Jeff's signature morning dish, an omelet made with three ingredients--really two if you don't count the spray of oil in the nonstick ceramic pan:

The Liquid Egg Omelet

Ingredients:

Oil Spray

Egg substitute

Parmesan Cheese

Directions:

1) Spray a nonstick omelet pan with oil. Warm on medium for a few seconds. Pour egg substitute into the pan (my hubby uses Trader Joe's Nulaid ReddiEgg, sometimes adding some liquid egg whites from another carton and once in a while a whole egg, with the amount depending on whether he's sharing it with me).

2) Sprinkle grated Parmesan on top (Jeff uses Trader Giotto's Parmesan & Romano blend) to taste. (Notice: no salt, spices or other additions in this simple 5-minute version, but feel free to add them to yours!)

3) Let eggs firm up a little, then tilt the pan in various directions, lifting the edges to let the liquid slide into the spaces (often I sneak in and do this part when hubby's distracted).

4) Flip omelet over to brown on the other side, or flip over on itself to create the typical omelet shape (though sometimes the omelet falls apart and then you have scrambled).

5) Slide onto a plate and drink with a glass of red grape juice diluted with a little sparkling water.

And that's breakfast a la Jeff!

That's all, folks!

Please check out my audio interviews with my husband on his food and restaurant picks: