Gnocchi Guru Evan Kleiman Dishes on Italian Staple

Evan Kleiman mixing Beet-Ricotta Gnocchi.

When I heard that KCRW Good Food host, author and chef Evan Kleiman was going to teach a class on making gnocchi at New School of Cooking in Culver City, I just had to sign up. I've been an avid listener to Kleiman's radio show since its inception in 1997; it's a smart, provocative and deeply satisfying mix of interviews, reviews and culinary exploration that excites the brain as much as the taste buds. 

A sheet of potato gnocchi shaped by the students.

The "Good Food" host, who often mentions her deep love of Italian cooking, has authored several cookbooks on the subject and ran a beloved L.A. restaurant, Angeli Caffe, which closed in 2012 after 28 years.

Until I took this class, I'd never attempted to make gnocchi (pronounced nyawk-ee). In fact, my household has become rather carb-phobic of late, with pasta and gnocchi seldom making an appearance. When gnocchi does show up, it's often the shelf-stable potato variety from Trader Joe's--quite good, but, no surprise, fresh is far superior.

"I don't believe in giving out recipes before class," Chef Kleiman announced as about 16 of us, perched on stools next to stainless-steel counters, looked on. "You have one opportunity to watch me and the rest of your life to look at the recipe."

Point taken. Our teacher was fun to watch--completely absorbed in what she was doing, yet imparting little gems of wisdom along the way to the room full of would-be sous chefs. Three hours sounds like a fair chunk of time, but it passes rather quickly when you're making three types of gnocchi, plus a meat sauce (Ragù alla Bolognese). 

Semolina Gnocchi (Gnocchi alla Romana).
These are baked rather than boiled.

Of course it was Evan Kleiman who did most of the work, assisted by several members of New School's culinary staff. We pitched in when asked--cutting out semolina gnocchi (Gnocchi alla Romana) with small round cookie cutters; mixing the potato, flour and egg gnocchi (Gnocchi di Patate) with bench scrapers and our hands; shaping the small beet and ricotta "gnocchetti" into tiny pink balls and rolling them in flour. It was particularly satisfying when we finally sat down to sample the bounty we'd help create.

Mixing potato and flour for Potato Gnocchi.

Here are a few tips I gleaned from the class, though I'm sure there are many more I can't decipher from my beet- and flour-stained notebook.

1. The key to success in making gnocchi is allowing the mixture to stand for several hours or overnight--usually in the refrigerator--to absorb the liquid. (This is also true of other dumpling-like doughs, such as matzo balls.) If you don't allow the mixture to chill enough, it won't hold together in the hot liquid.

2. Always do a "boil test" with a few gnocchi before dumping all of them in. When they float to the top, they're ready. Make sure that water is at least simmering when you put the gnocchi (potato or cheese) in.

3. Making potato gnocchi is a more like making pie dough than kneading bread. When you add flour, you want to mix it in to create a dough, but avoid working it so much that you activate the gluten, as you would when making bread.

4. Ms. Kleiman used baked beets that were peeled and grated in her beet-ricotta gnocchi, which created gorgeous fuchsia-colored little rounds of cheesy dough. Golden beets, spinach or carrots would be good alternatives--and would add their own beautiful hues.

5. The ricotta cheese gnocchi can be made with almost no flour or with almond flour or potato flour if you want to make them gluten-free. 

6. The key to ricotta gnocchi is using the right ricotta. "Don't use American ricotta as it's too wet and will require too much flour," Kleiman said. (Her preferred varieties are listed in the recipe below.)

7. A pressure cooker is invaluable for cutting the time required to make an excellent sauce that tastes like the flavors have melded for at least a day, even though it has only cooked for an hour. Kleiman's favorite brand is Fagor, which claims that its pressure cookers can reduce the cooking time as much as 70%.

Potato gnocchi are particularly satisfying to make because "you never have to measure anything," Kleiman said. You just rice baked potatoes (minus skin) in a food mill or ricer with fine holes, dust with flour while still warm, add egg and mix with care (see Step 3 above). It's also possible to leave out the egg.

And finally, as she watched her class making gnocchi for the first time--some rolling the balls of dough a little too small, others a bit too large, some making it too wet, others kneading too much--Kleiman seemed undismayed.

"Cooking's a craft. You only get good at it by using your hands over and over again," she said. "It's very satisfying if it comes out right. If it doesn't, you eat it anyway. You eat your mistakes." 

Below are Kleiman's recipes for Beet-Ricotta Dumplings, Potato Gnocchi and Ragù alla Bolognese.  All are taken almost verbatim from the handout our hard-working chef finally allowed us to have after we'd watched her create culinary magic in front of our eyes. 

Fuchsia or magenta? Whatever you call it, the gnocchi are delicious!

Evan Kleiman's Preface to the Beet-Ricotta Recipe:

I'm giving you the recipe for the Beet Ricotta because they are so special, but really the recipe is the same whatever condiment you use (like sautéed zucchini). The only difference is how much additional flour you might need to add because of the additional moisture in the "condiments." Or you can make them totally plain. When I do that, I always add a little grating of fresh nutmeg. The default finishing of all these gnocchi is melted or brown butter and Parmesan. You can add sage to the butter or a sprig of rosemary for flavor.

You can make the "batter" up to 2 days ahead, and you can form the balls one day ahead. Because the moisture content of the ricotta varies, always make a tester of your mixture before you form all the balls.

These beet "gnocchetti" are a revelation. The color is intense, the flavor earthy and sweet and the texture has that kind of disappearing "cloud in the mouth" effect--the perfect recipe when you need to wow people, especially those who think they hate beets. Boy will they change their minds! 

Beet-Ricotta Dumplings 

Serves: 6-10 depending on appetite and size of menu

Ingredients:

2 medium or 4 small red beets, washed

2 pounds dry Italian ricotta*

2 whole eggs

2 cups grated imported Parmesan cheese, plus more for the table

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (more if needed) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dredging

1 pound butter

2 bunches fresh sage leaves removed from the stems

*Use the Angelo & Franco brand from Whole Foods or the Gioa brand at Italian markets.

Directions:

1. Wrap washed beets in aluminum foil and place on baking sheet. Bake in 450 degree oven until tender--approximately 45 minutes.

2. Remove from the oven and let beets cool. Slip the skins off with your hands. Grate beets into a mixing bowl on the large hold of a box grater. 

3. Add the ricotta, eggs, Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to the beets.

4. Mix slowly in a stand mixer with a whisk attachment or with a spoon until combined. (Beware of colorful splashes from the bowl!) 

5. Add 1 cup flour and mix again. Set the mixture aside for a minimum of 2 hours in the refrigerator. It can be made up to two days ahead.

6. To form the gnocchetti, roll a small walnut-sized piece of mixture into a little ball.

7. Drop it onto a shallow pan (pie pan or cookie sheet) covered with enough flour to coat all sides of the balls.

8. Lay each dumpling on a parchment-lined baking sheet, lightly covered with flour. Continue forming the gnocchetti until all the mixture is gone. You can then refrigerate the little dumplings up to one day in advance.

9. Just before you are ready to serve, melt the butter together with the sage leaves in a skillet. Let the butter lightly brown. The sage leaves should be nice and crispy. Set the brown butter and sage aside while you cook the gnocchetti.

10. Slip the gnocchetti into a pot of simmering, salted water. Wait until they float to the surface of the water and continue to cook for an additional minute. 

11. Using a slotted spoon, remove the gnocchetti from the water as they are done. Place them on a serving platter. Once all the gnocchetti are on the platter, top with melted butter and crispy sage, plus a liberal dusting of Parmesan cheese. Serve to oohs and aahs!

Sheets of gnocchi awaiting their hot bath.

Potato Gnocchi 

(Gnocchi di Patate)

Ingredients:

2 pounds mixture of russet and Yukon or other yellow-fleshed potatoes, scrubbed

300-350 grams 00 flour or all-purpose flour, plus extra for kneading and rolling

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 eggs, beaten

Making potato gnocchi.

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prick potatoes and place directly on metal oven racks.  Bake potatoes until soft and yielding.

2. Remove baked potatoes from oven and carefully remove the peel.  The potatoes will, of course, be very hot.  Press through a food mill or potato ricer onto a floured board, preferably wood.


3. Chop up the potato further using a bench scraper, then sprinkle flour and a little egg over dough that isn't too wet. The goal is to control moisture so you don’t have to add too much flour, which has gluten and will cause tough gnocchi in large quantities.

4. Cut off a manageable chunk of dough and roll it into a 1-inch diameter snake.  Cut snake into pieces between 1/2 and 1 inch.  You may lightly score with fork tines or poke your index finger into each pillow making an indentation or you can use them as simply little pillows.

5. Lay the gnocchi on a parchment or plastic wrap lined tray and refrigerate until ready to use.  They should be cold.  You make also freeze them on the tray for later use, collecting them when hard for storage in a zip bag.

6. To cook, bring water to a boil, add salt, then turn heat to a simmer.  Add the gnocchi (if frozen do not defrost).  Gnocchi are done when they rise to the top of the water.  I usually let them cook another few seconds. 

7. Remove from water with a slotted spoon.  Lay spoon on a towel to collect additional water.  Serve on a platter with sauce of your choice.  You may also sauté them in butter like spåtzle after they are boiled.

Ragù alla Bolognese in a pressure cooker.

Ragù alla Bolognese*

Ingredients:

1 ounce dried porcini or 1 tablespoon porcini powder

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 celery stalks, peeled and minced

2 carrots, peeled, trimmed and minced

1 onion, peeled and finely diced

Salt to taste

2 peeled garlic cloves, minced

2 lbs ground chuck or ground meat (not lean)

½ lb sweet Italian sausage

1 cup red wine

Small handful finely chopped Italian parsley

3 sage leaves, coarsely chopped

2 cups water or broth

1 can tomatoes in juice, blended 

Additional salt and pepper to taste

*Recipe calls for a pressure cooker, but I assume you could cook it without one just by adding more time. 

Directions:

1. Put the porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and cover with warm water.  Let dry mushrooms soak for 30 minutes. 

2. Sauté the celery, carrot and onions in butter and olive oil with salt to taste until they begin to soften.

3. While the vegetables are sautéing, put the ground meat and sausage in a bowl and add milk.  Stir to mix.  The meat should become fluffy.

4. When vegetables soften, add garlic and sauté until you smell the aroma.  Then add the ground meat and milk mixture and sauté until brown.

5. Add the wine, raise heat and cook off alcohol.  Add herbs, broth or water, tomatoes in juice and salt and pepper to taste.

6. Close the pressure cooker according to manufacturer directions.  Bring to high pressure and set to maintain pressure.  Cook for 1 hour, take off heat and let pressure reduce naturally.

A feast!

DIY Granola: It's Easy!

Granola's hot! And you don't have to break the bank to buy it and worry that it's filled with everything you're trying to avoid--like too much fat, sugar, salt and gluten. The solution? Make it yourself. It's really easy. But first a little history. I find it fascinating, but if you don't, skip to the recipe at the end!

Once maligned as sixties hippy food for "crunchy" liberal types, granola, according to FoodReference.com, traces its lineage back to one health-conscious doctor/nutritionist/would-be Presbyterian minister called Sylvester Graham, an early 19th century evangelist for vegetarianism and inventor of the graham cracker.
Later that century, another health-conscious doctor used graham flour to create twice-baked "health" food he called "granula," which John Harvey Kellogg of Corn Flakes fame, a Seventh Day Adventist who ran a sanitarium in Battle Creek, Mich., turned into a baked, ground whole grain product renamed "granola."

Fast forward to the 1960s when granola as we know it came to be. Some link that resurgence to the 1969 Woodstock Music and Art Festival, which drew 400,000 people to a farm in upstate New York--and where massive amounts of granola were served. Out of this watershed rock 'n' roll moment emerged a recipe for Sunshine Happy Hippy Granola, which isn't all that much different than the recipe below.

Okay. Enough time travel. Back to 2015. Granola seems to have shed its hippy image and simply become hip--and expensive. I've seen prices ranging from $3.99 a pound for bulk granola to $12.99 a pound for a "gourmet" version.

At the top of the price pyramid are gluten-free, non-GMO, organic and/or locally sourced varieties with a range of fancy-sounding names that sound like cookies, cakes or hot drinks and display a knack for creative marketing and packaging ideas. But you can easily make something similar--maybe even better--for less money with less sugar and more of the ingredients that appeal to you and none of the ones that don't. I can't promise that this granola is low in calories--it's not, so watch your portions. And it does include some sweeteners and oil (and you can experiment with adding even less). But it's full of healthy protein, fiber, omega-3, cholesterol-fighting oats and a variety of vitamins and minerals.

My recipe is basically a blank canvas that you can paint to suit your own tastes. Use one kind of nut or several--or none. Use any seeds you prefer--or none. Use agave instead of honey and maple syrup, coconut oil in place of olive. Leave out some oil or the egg white and stir in a tablespoon of pureed pumpkin or peanut butter instead. It's gluten-free if you use the right kind of oats and vegan if you omit the egg white.

After the granola is baked to a golden crisp, I add about a cup of dried fruit and other mix-ins. The range of choices is broad. I usually add currants or raisins, mini chocolate chips and sour cherries or cranberries. Sometimes I mix in dried blueberries or Trader Joe's Golden Berry Blend. But you can go tropical with candied pineapple or dried mango--or try candied ginger and banana chips. The possibilities are infinite--or you can just leave out the fruit and chips and cut some of the calories.

Granola Breakfast Cookies, inspired by a recipe from The Two Bite Club,
using homemade granola in place of store-bought.

Recipes from two food blogs, Food52 and Bon Appetit, served as my inspiration. I wanted to reduce the fat and sugar while retaining the fresh, crunchy sweetness that makes granola so appealing when mixed with milk or yogurt, sprinkled over ice cream or an apple crisp, or used as a muffin topper or a cookie or energy bar ingredient. The  recipe calls for one egg white, though I have used two when the oats and nuts seemed in need of more liquid. I usually mix the egg white in with the other liquid ingredients. This allows me to use less oil. In theory, it also helps the mixture to "clump" a little more than usual when it bakes in the oven, attaining the clusters so prized by granola lovers. Unfortunately, this hasn't worked for me, probably because I stir the granola every 10 minutes or so to attain even browning. Another method I read about for "clumpifying" is to stir in the beaten egg white right before putting the mixture in the oven, then refraining from stirring. I'm afraid this would lead to burnt granola in my oven. However, every oven is different, so do experiment. After all, that's the fun of making granola--and cooking in general!

Fresh batch of granola--not much clumping, but lots of crunch!

Honey Maple Granola

(Makes 7-8 cups)

Ingredients:

3 cups rolled oats*

1 1/2 cups nuts (I used 1/2 each of walnuts, pecans and sliced almonds)

1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut

1/2 cup raw sunflower seeds

1/2 cup raw pumpkin seeds

1/4 cup sesame seeds 

2 tablespoons chia or hemp seeds--or a combination (optional)

1/4 cup olive oil (or canola or liquid coconut oil)

1/4 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup honey

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 egg white (large egg)

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon*

3/4 cup-1 cup dried fruit (optional)

1/4 cup-1/2 cup mini chocolate chips (optional)

*Use certified gluten-free oats if you're gluten-sensitive. (Trader Joe's and Bob's Red Mill are two brands I like.)
**Feel free to substitute or add other spices, such as ginger, nutmeg or cardamom, depending on your taste and mix-ins.

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Grease or spread parchment on a rimmed cookie sheet (12-by-17-inch pan works well).

2. Mix oats, nuts, coconut and seeds together in a large bowl.

3. In a small bowl, stir together oil, maple syrup, honey, brown sugar, egg white and vanilla. Add to the oats mixture and stir until the liquid is well mixed in.

4. Stir in salt and cinnamon or other spices.

5. Spread the granola evenly in the pan, patting it down with a rubber spatula to make sure the thickness is fairly uniform. If you prefer, you can divide the mixture between two cookie sheets, making a thinner layer of granola. If you do it this way, you will need to check it more often in the oven, as it will bake more quickly and could easily burn.

6. Check the granola every 10 or 15 minutes, turning it carefully with a metal spatula to make sure that it's browning evenly. Flip the pan back to front halfway through. When it's done, in about 50 minutes to an hour, it will be golden brown.

7. Cool for a few minutes in the pan on a wire rack. Then add dried fruit and/or chips. Granola keeps in an airtight container for about two weeks or in the freezer for up to three months. If you freeze it, leave out the dried fruit and add it later.

An Elusive But Very Big Bean--And a Soup Recipe

Shortly after the earthquake that caused widespread damage in Napa, CA, last August, my husband and I revisited the city that had so captured our hearts (and appetites) the year before. Some buildings looked untouched while others--many ornate, vintage structures--showed visible damage and were surrounded by rubble from bricks and masonry that had fallen during the 6.0 temblor. Luckily for us, the more modern side of the town across the river fared well and was a beehive of activity. We wandered into The Fatted Calf, a popular charcuterie and butcher shop at the fabulous Oxbow Public Market, next door to the beloved Model Bakery, home to a world-renown English muffin (about which you can read elsewhere on this blog).

After buying a roast beef sandwich from the Fatted Calf, my gaze fell on a bag of the largest beans I'd ever encountered--white beans shaped like limas but about three times the size. Of course, being a longtime legume lover, I had to have them. I can't recall the price, (though at the website, most of the beans can be gotten for $5.95 per pound--plus shipping, which strikes me as eminently reasonable for rare, fresher-than-average beans). I bought the bag with the label sporting the picture of the pretty '40s-style woman with her tongue out, suggesting a hearty appetite--for beans, of course!

Rancho Gordo Royal Corona Beans, the label said, were "a big, fat super-creamy white runner bean that's even bigger when cooked." No kidding!

Heirloom beans are the foundation of the Napa-based company, the brainchild of Steve Sando, who writes a lively blog on the website and co-authored a 2008 book on heirloom bean varieties, cooking techniques and recipes. The website is also a great resource for cooking tips and recipes.

In addition to 37 varieties of beans offered for sale on its website (though not all are always available), the company also sells other bean-friendly goods, like chilies, spices, dried corn, rice and other grains. It has storefronts in Napa and San Francisco, and its products are carried in various specialty stores around the country.

Many of its beans are grown in Northern California, with others from Mexico, and some--like my beloved Royal Corona-- hailing from further afield. I discovered this after I used up the last of my beans in a tasty chicken, bean and kale soup and immediately went to the company's website hoping to order some more.

Alas, they were out of stock. When I put my name on the waiting list, I learned I was 98th, most likely behind some well-known chefs like Thomas Keller (Bouchon, French Laundry) and David Kinch (Manresa), all major Rancho Gordo fans apparently. In desperation, I wrote to Customer Service and heard back promptly from Pamela López:

"I'm glad to hear you've become a super fan of our Royal Corona!" she said in an email. "I must admit it's my favorite bean as well! Unfortunately for both of us, we won't be getting it  back for some time as it's harvested in Europe; it's from Poland to be precise. So imagine how long it takes for the beans to sprout and then the time it takes to get to the US... The time seems daunting but it's definitely in our near future, hopefully by the end of this year."

Ms. López chided me gently for letting my blog go to seed, so largely thanks to her (and a less subtle nudge from my hubby), I'm writing about that elusive bean, hoping perhaps my name will move up a few notches on the waiting list (please!). Meanwhile, Ms. López suggested that the company's cassoulet beans would be a good substitute, because, though not as large, they are equally creamy and delicious. Cannellini beans might be another good alternative.

One note on canned beans vs. fresh: Although I've used canned varieties on occasion, there is a definite taste and texture difference in beans that have been soaked overnight, then cooked until they've got just the right bite. There is a meaty firmness to cooked dry beans and more character than in the canned variety, which are a little too mushy for my taste. This is particularly true in heirloom beans that are harvested and sold within a short period of time. They also require less cooking time.

So, finally, here's a soup recipe in which the beans really play a starring role.  It's a variation on an Italian bean and kale soup I've made before. In addition to these meaty, creamy beans, a homemade chicken broth adds a great deal of flavor, along with some Parmesan rind added toward the end. You can use canned broth, but again, you'll sacrifice flavor. However, in a time crunch, it works just fine--especially when amped up with a little Parmesan.

Chicken, Bean & Kale Soup

(8 to 10 servings)

Ingredients:

3 quarts (12 cups) homemade* or store-bought chicken broth

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, diced

3 to 4  carrots, peeled and diced

3 to 4 stalks celery, diced

1 medium potato, peeled and diced

2 cups kale, washed, chopped and loosely packed

1/2 cup Italian parsley, chopped

2-3 cloves minced garlic

1 to 2 cups cooked Royal Corona, cassoulet or cannellini beans**

Parmigiano-Reggiano rind or 2-3 tablespoons grated Parmesan

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 

1/2 teaspoon dried basil or 2 tablespoons fresh leaves, chopped

Other spices to taste

1/2 cup white wine (optional)

1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked chicken breast meat, chopped or shredded

Notes:

*I made my chicken stock from the frozen carcasses of two leftover roast chickens, leftover gravy, two uncooked chicken backs, plus chopped onions, carrots, celery and spices that I simmered for about 1 1/2 hours, then strained. I added several cups of Trader Joe's Organic Low-Sodium Chicken Broth when the broth turned out not to be quite enough. If you make the stock ahead of time, a little fridge time will allow you to skim the fat off the top before making the soup.

**Directions for dried beans usually include soaking them overnight, then draining them and boiling until done. There are fast-soak methods that call for boiling dried beans for a few minutes, then letting them soak for an hour or so before cooking.

Directions:

1. In a large skillet over a medium heat, add half the oil and fry chopped onions, celery, carrots and potatoes until softened and golden but not cooked through. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add to a stockpot, along with the chicken broth and bay leaf. Warm over a medium flame until simmering, then lower heat.

2. Add the remaining oil to the skillet and cook kale until lightly wilted on medium heat. Add parsley and garlic, cooking for another minute or two. Add to the stock pot along with the cooked beans and Parmesan rinds, if using.

3. Add salt, pepper, thyme, basil, additional spices and wine, if using. Cook for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft and the flavors are well combined.

4. Add cooked chicken right before serving.

5. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and serve with a green salad and some crusty bread.

Buon appetito!

1 Egg + 2 Egg Whites + Veggies = Boffo Omelet

We're still on a weight-loss kick at my house, though my husband's been much more rigorous about it than I--and the results are in: He's lost 10 pounds! As I haven't had the courage to step on the scale following the shock of discovering in the doctor's office that I'd piled on a few over the holidays, I can't report on my progress. Of course, this head-in-the-sand approach is a definite no-no when it comes to taking off weight. But I have been eating healthier, which is a start anyway.

Here's a delicious, easy-to-make omelet that was inspired by one of my favorite Weight Watchers recipes for a one-egg, two-egg white omelet. The combination, on the WW plan is only two points, as the two egg whites aren't counted, though, obviously, they do have calories (about 34 in 2 large egg whites, plus about 72 calories for a large egg). The benefit for those of us with cholesterol issues is that egg whites have no cholesterol, though they also have fewer nutrients than yolks (check out the American Egg Board's Incredible Egg nutrition page), which contain generous amounts of Vitamins A, D and E, though, surprisingly, egg whites have slightly more protein. I like adding the one egg for extra flavor and color, though you could make the omelet with all egg whites (I'd use four egg whites total).

While my husband sticks faithfully to his 2-ingredient omelet--Trader Joe's ReddiEgg (or TJ's 100% Liquid Egg Whites), plus a generous sprinkling of Trader Giotto's Parmesan & Romano cheese (see my post on Living With a Picky Eater)--I like to make myself the two-point omelet, which I jazz up a bit by frying a few onions or scallions, sliced mushrooms, chopped red pepper and a sprinkling of Parmesan--fresh grated, if I have it. This last adds another point or two and a few calories, but a lot more flavor. Of course, salt, pepper and a few spices don't hurt either. The best trick is cooking the omelet in a nonstick pan. I heat the pan a few seconds and use just a spray or two of oil on the surface before adding the veggies, followed by the beaten egg. Served with a spicy splash of Sriracha or salsa, wrapped in a tortilla or served au naturel, this omelet is a boffo breakfast to jump-start your day. But watch out: It's so easy to whip together, it may become habit-forming!

Parmesan Veggie Omelet

1 large egg

2 large egg whites

2-3 tablespoons chopped veggies*

Vegetable oil spray

1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese**

Salt and pepper, to taste

Italian or other seasoning of your choice, to taste

*I used 1 green onion, 1/8 of a red pepper, 2-3 chopped mushrooms, but chopped spinach, tomatoes or other choices would also work.

** Sometimes I add or substitute a tablespoon or two of no-fat or low-fat feta.

Directions

1. Put the whole egg in a small bowl. Separate 2 eggs and add whites to the egg, saving yolks for another use. Beat eggs lightly with a fork until combined but not whipped to a froth.

2. Dice green or regular onions and red pepper, if using. Thinly slice mushrooms. Chop red peppers. Heat a small skillet or omelet pan, preferably nonstick, on low to medium heat. Spray lightly with oil. Add veggies and fry for 1 to 2 minutes on medium heat until lightly golden.

3. Add egg mixture to the fried veggies, adding another spray of oil if need be. Sprinkle with cheese, salt, pepper and additional seasoning.

4. Lightly tip pan to make sure that egg reaches to the edges. When egg has set for a minute or so, use a spatula (rubber or plastic for a nonstick pan) to pull edges of the egg toward the middle slightly, tipping pan to allow the liquid egg to flow into the spaces along the edge of the omelet.

5. When the omelet is almost set, flip it over on itself and ease out onto a plate.

6. Garnish as you wish, with a sprinkle of parmesan, paprika, a dash of hot sauce or salsa. If you wish, add a slice of toast or wrap up in a tortilla--or serve with a dollop of yogurt or cottage cheese on the side.

Autumn Soup: Yellow Split Pea, Pumpkin & Sweet Potato

Beautiful Soup, so rich and green,

Waiting in a hot tureen!
Who for such dainties would not stoop?
Soup of the evening, beautiful Soup!

-- Lewis Carroll, Alice's Adventures in Wonderland

I made soup this week, though it wasn't green but orangey-gold from the yellow split peas, pumpkin, sweet potato and saffron I added. I was inspired by a recipe I found in one of my favorite cookbooks, Claudia Roden's The Book of Jewish Food. The book, subtitled "An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York," is as much a history of Jewish cooking--and the peripatetic journey of the Jewish people themselves--as it is a compendium of diverse recipes from Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jews. My own family comes from an Ashkenazi (German-Russian) background, making me more familiar with typical eastern European Jewish dishes such as borscht, blintzes and gefilte fish, so I'm particularly fascinated with Roden's section on Sephardi cooking. These include, broadly, dishes developed by Jews who lived in lands along the Mediterranean (Spain, Turkey, Morocco), as well as in the Middle East and India. The food combinations, flavors and spices are quite different than those I recall from childhood. My mother often made soups too, with lentil, split pea and barley on regular rotation for Sunday brunch (along with sides of cold roast beef, tuna salad and boiled tongue). But adding cinnamon, ginger and pumpkin to a soup? That would have struck her as very strange.

No soaking is required for dry yellow lentils. 

After making some more pumpkin puree using the steamer method (I used it previously when I made pumpkin pecan bread), I searched through Roden's book for pumpkin recipes and found a surprising number of them, with several in the savory category. A Moroccan selection caught my eye: Potakhe de Potiron, which Roden translates as "Yellow Split Pea and Pumpkin Soup." I pretty much followed her recipe, but, as usual, changed a few things. Instead of cubed pumpkin, I used puree, replaced ground ginger with fresh and added a diced sweet potato. I reduced the amount of oil (from 4 tablespoons to one), replacing sunflower with coconut and adding some lemon and orange juices. But these are small changes--and you can make your own.

Pumpkin & spice

Yellow Split Pea and Pumpkin Soup 

(Adapted from The Book of Jewish Food)

Serves 6

Ingredients

1 1/4 cups yellow split peas
1 large onion, chopped
2 3/4 quarts chicken stock
1 tablespoon coconut, sunflower or other vegetable oil
2 cups pumpkin puree (fresh, canned* or cubed pumpkin)
1 small sweet potato, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 to 2 teaspoons fresh-grated ginger root (or 1/4 teaspoon ground)
1/4 teaspoon saffron
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 to 2 teaspoons honey**

*Use one 15-ounce can
**Optional

Diced sweet potato 

Directions

Chop the onion and saute in oil until softened but not brown. Put the yellow split peas in a soup pot with the stock, and add the sauteed onion. Bring to a boil and simmer until the split peas are tender. This can take 30 minutes to an hour, so be sure and  taste-test a few. They should be soft but not mushy. 

Add pumpkin puree (or cubes), sweet potato and spices. Simmer until the sweet potato (and pumpkin if it's cubed) is falling apart. Add orange and lemon juices, and salt and pepper to taste. If you sample and decide the soup could use a bit more sweetness, add a teaspoon or two of honey. 

Soup is on!

Tinkering:

1. Roden suggests sprinkling some finely chopped flat-leaf parsley on top. I chose to garnish the soup with a tablespoon of Greek yogurt and some toasted pumpkin seeds. It's great either way--or try both!

2. Dried chickpeas can be used in place of the yellow split peas. In that case, soak them for several hours, preferably overnight, before boiling until soft. Somehow I think canned wouldn't work as well.

3. For a smoother texture, puree the soup using a blender or food processor.

4. Some variations of this soup use meat and marrow bones. I think it might be interesting to go meatless and try a vegetarian broth for the base and vegan sour cream on top.

5. If you want more chicken flavor, try this idea to amp up the stock: Combine a leftover roast chicken carcass, including pan juices, a cup of water and two quarts of low-sodium chicken stock (I use Trader Joe's  organic variety). Add a half cup each of rough-chopped carrot, celery and onion. Boil the mixture for about an hour, then strain and continue with the soup recipe.

Imported red saffron, a gift from a friend

1

Living With a Picky Eater

A happy man with his liquid-egg omelet and red grape juice. 

Living with a picky eater when you're a food blogger is quite a challenge. My husband Jeff, ultra-inventive when it comes to his artistic passions--photography, videography, writing and music--not only would be happy to eat the same thing for breakfast, lunch and dinner; he often does! When I ask him if he doesn't get a little bored dining on the same fare so frequently he looks at me blankly and says, "Well, I've been married to you for all these years, haven't I?" Nice guy.

Jeff's favorite Welch's Red 100% Grape Juice in his beloved Porky Pig glass.

Among the things he won't eat: most vegetables, many fruits, fish, beef, pork, lamb and anything with sugar in it before noon--this last because he says it disagrees with him until after lunch. Among his favorites, in no particular order: unflavored rice cakes, rye bread, succotash (or Trader Joe's Soycutash), carrots, lemons, apples, unsweetened cereal (usually dry, eaten out of a large plastic cup--but never for breakfast--with Crispix being his favorite), liquid eggs (more on that later), cheese (but not cream or stinky kinds), roasted unsalted almonds, Progresso soup (lentil, minestrone and chicken tortilla, though he admits when pushed that he likes my homemade versions better), chicken, turkey, and black-bean veggie burgers. Jeff's drinks of choice are Diet Coke or Welch's Red 100% Grape Juice; he doesn't like the purple variety and since none of our local supermarkets stock the red anymore, we order it by the case, courtesy of the very obliging local supermarket chain, Gelson's. He does love sweets, particularly chocolate, and has an abiding weakness for a candy bar he enjoyed growing up in New York City, Goldenberg's Peanut Chews. Oh, yes, hubby also doesn't touch alcohol or coffee, about which he teases me by calling it "dirty water." What a joker!

Now, you ask, how can I remain married to this fussy man? Well, truth be told, he's pretty easy to please if you make him approximately the same thing every day, or allow him to whip it up himself. Imagine, if you will, that though cooking is one of your passions, you're too tired to put together a dinner one evening. In totters hubby from his home office and happily throws several Morningstar Spicy Black Bean Burgers in the skillet, sprinkles them with lemon juice, takes a second pan and pours in a generous amount of Trader Joe's frozen Soycutash--a blend of corn, red peppers and edamame--more lemon juice plus some Parmesan and faster than you can say, "voila!", dinner's on the table--no fuss, no muss. It's pretty good, and if you want it again the next night, the chef is happy to oblige.

Ingredients for Jeff's favorite morning omelet, plus cheese.

But since we began with dinner, let's backtrack and talk about breakfast--and we'll end with a simple recipe for Jeff's signature morning dish, an omelet made with three ingredients--really two if you don't count the spray of oil in the nonstick ceramic pan:

The Liquid Egg Omelet

Ingredients:

Oil Spray

Egg substitute

Parmesan Cheese

Directions:

1) Spray a nonstick omelet pan with oil. Warm on medium for a few seconds. Pour egg substitute into the pan (my hubby uses Trader Joe's Nulaid ReddiEgg, sometimes adding some liquid egg whites from another carton and once in a while a whole egg, with the amount depending on whether he's sharing it with me).

2) Sprinkle grated Parmesan on top (Jeff uses Trader Giotto's Parmesan & Romano blend) to taste. (Notice: no salt, spices or other additions in this simple 5-minute version, but feel free to add them to yours!)

3) Let eggs firm up a little, then tilt the pan in various directions, lifting the edges to let the liquid slide into the spaces (often I sneak in and do this part when hubby's distracted).

4) Flip omelet over to brown on the other side, or flip over on itself to create the typical omelet shape (though sometimes the omelet falls apart and then you have scrambled).

5) Slide onto a plate and drink with a glass of red grape juice diluted with a little sparkling water.

And that's breakfast a la Jeff!

That's all, folks!

Please check out my audio interviews with my husband on his food and restaurant picks: