Jewish Comfort Food: Noodle Kugel

Thanksgiving eats: Kugel's on the right, but where's the turkey? (Photo by Nagisa Kamae)

With appetizers, side dishes and amazing desserts, turkey sometimes seems beside the point at Thanksgiving. This year, our bird was extra large at 22 lbs. for only nine people (plenty of leftovers!). Plates filled quickly with side dishes: cornbread stuffing, homemade cranberry sauce, mashed sweet potatoes, green beans with almonds, cranberry orange nut bread, salad, and noodle kugel--not to mention an amazing apple pie a la mode for dessert (we skipped the pumpkin pie!).

The kugel was my contribution, along with a strange-looking menurkey--a menorah shaped like a turkey--to commemorate Hanukkah arriving on the same day as Thanksgiving, supposedly for the first time since 1888!

Our menurkey! (Photo by Nagisa Kamae)

Kugel, a German word that means "sphere" or "ball," is a pudding-like casserole that is usually made of noodles or potatoes, eggs and dairy products. The noodle versions--called lokshen kugel for the Yiddish word for noodles--can be savory or sweet--and there are many variations, with heated debates erupting, often at the holiday table, over whose kugel is "the best"! I won't weigh in on that. I've tasted amazing kugel--and, like so many recipes, the last one I ate is usually the best.

Depending on the amount of sugar you add, and whether or not you use raisins or other fruit, a kugel can be almost dessert-like or have just a hint of sweetness and work well with a meal. For Jews who keep kosher and don't want to mix milk and meat, it might serve as the focal point of a brunch, along with bagels and lox. At our Thanksgiving, however, it worked just fine as a side. Leftovers, if any, are excellent for breakfast!

Here's the recipe I made, adapted from one I found on the food blog, Tori Avey. It uses ricotta instead of cottage cheese (which some will consider a sacrilege), and includes dried cranberries and raisins. I used only raisins, but you could add cranberries or other dried fruits, such as apricots or apples. I softened the fruit in a mixture of grape juice and water instead of the rum the recipe called for, but feel free to use the alcohol, which will mostly boil off in cooking. For those who prefer a less dessert-like kugel, the fruit is optional, and the amount of sugar can be reduced.

Holiday Kugel

(Adapted from Tori Avey recipe)

About 15 servings

1 cup raisins (optional)

1/2 cup apple or grape juice (optional)

1/2 cup water (optional)

12 oz. wide egg noodles

1 cup cream cheese, softened*

1/2 cup white sugar

1/4 cup brown sugar

6 large eggs

2 cups sour cream*

1 cup ricotta*

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

Topping:

3/4 cup cornflakes, crushed

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (or more, to taste)

1 to 2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 cup walnuts or pecans (optional)

*You can substitute low-fat versions of any of these, though nonfat isn't recommended.

Directions

1. Preset oven to 350 degrees F. Put dried fruit, juice and water (or rum) in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, then simmer on low for about 15 minutes. Drain and allow to cool.

2. Cook noodles until soft, taking care not to overcook. Rinse in cool water and drain well.

3. Using a mixer, food processor or blender, mix together (on low to medium speed for mixer, pulsing for food processor or blender) cream cheese and sugars until well combined.

4. Add eggs one at a time, incorporating each before adding the next. Add sour cream, ricotta, butter, vanilla, cinnamon and salt, and mix until smooth.

5. Combine noodles with the liquid mixture. Add raisins, if using. 

6. Spray a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.  Pour mixture into the dish making sure to spread it evenly on the dish. At this point, if you're having guests later in the same day or the next, it's possible to cover the uncooked kugel and let it sit overnight, baking the next day. Some kugel recipes actually recommend this step.

7. If you're using the cornflake topping, crush the cereal with a rolling pin. Then add cinnamon, sugar and nuts, if using. Sprinkle evenly on top of the casserole. Some variations call for using crushed graham crackers instead of cornflakes. You can also just use cinnamon and sugar--or no topping at all!

8. Bake for 60 minutes, turning halfway through. The kugel should be golden brown on top and the center should be firm. Let the kugel rest for 15 to 20 minutes before slicing. It can be warmed in a low oven before serving.

If you've got a family recipe for kugel you wish to share, please feel free. I make no claims to making "the best," as undoubtedly the one your mother or grandmother served will trump mine any day! And that's as it should be. 

Vanilla Bean Brown Butter Ice Cream

Sticky Toffee Pudding, Vanilla Bean Brown Butter Ice Cream & Toffee Sauce 

I recently attended  Nicole Weston's informative class on food blogging at the New School of Cooking in Culver City. You can read about it elsewhere on my blog. Here's a recipe for Vanilla Bean Brown Butter Ice Cream that Weston shared with us but hasn't yet posted on her popular Baking Bites blog. It will be in her new ice cream cookbook, due out next year. Meanwhile, here's an advance look, with additional notes on making brown butter from the recipe for Brown Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies in her 2009 cookbook, The Baking Bites. Brown butter seems to be one of Weston's favorite ingredients. From the rich and sensuous taste of this ice cream, I can see why!

Vanilla Bean Brown Butter Ice Cream

1/3 cup butter

2/3 cup sugar

1 cup milk

Seeds scraped from split vanilla bean

2 cups heavy cream

Melt the butter in a saucepan over low-medium heat until butter has turned an amber color and smells toasty but not burnt. (The butter turns brown after 4 or 5 minutes, Weston said.) Add sugar and milk and stir for a minute or two until the sugar dissolves.

Remove the pan from the heat. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape seeds out using the back of a knife. Add the beans to the milk, sugar and butter mixture. Stir to incorporate. Then stir in the cream.

Put the mixture into the refrigerator to chill completely--for about 6 hours or so. Remove it from the refrigerator and stir. Pour into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer's directions.

We enjoyed the ice cream with Weston's Sticky Toffee Pudding, a recipe you can find at her Baking Bites website. For those of us without an ice cream maker, Weston said it's definitely worth the investment for ice cream lovers. She has an excellent discussion on how to choose one at her blog.